| Grow Sheer Beauty and History in Your Garden. written by Peggy-Anne Pineau
large stately shrubs that demand attention. These shrubs that won the hearts of Kings and Queens alike and famous painters saw fit to immortalize. Such is yours to behold and is the legacy and wonder of the “old roses” What are old, antique or heirloom roses, you ask? The most common definition given is “all roses that were in existence before the introduction in 1867 of La France”, the very first hybrid tea rose. After this the old beauties lost favour in gardeners eyes as they did not repeat bloom as the new roses did - a thought that still holds true today. As a grower of these shrubs for some 20 odd years, this logic is a complete mystery to me. The only answer I can think of is that we are hung up on how we think a “rose” should perform. That these old beauties bloom in mass profusion for only two to four weeks in early summer some how prompts the majority of gardeners to opt for the more modern roses that produce a few blooms several times throughout the growing season. I like to think of these plants as not just roses per say, but more like superior garden shrubs that just happen to be of the rose family. We wouldn't expect our rhododendron, wegeila or flowering crab to repeat bloom all summer? And we wouldn't stop planting them because they do not! So why would we expect the old roses to have those attributes? What you miss by choosing not to plant old roses in your garden are massive blooms of intoxicating fragrance born in huge clusters that completely cover the bush. They can out rival any rhododendron by far and bloom for a longer time frame. They come in lots of colours and flower form so that there is literally something for everyone’s individual pleasure. The varieties that are winter hardy for Canada are disease resistant and very easy care as they have survived for centuries without the use of fungicides and pesticides. Tall, short, climbing, they come in all sizes to fit your garden space. Need I say more? Growing of the old roses couldn't’t be easier once you know something about the hardiness and attributes of the variety you want. They should be treated in the garden the same as you would any medium to large garden shrub. Size and height strictly depends on what is in the genes of each individual rose. As these plants bloom on last years wood, pruning is done mainly in spring removing only dead, diseased and damaged wood. After they are established you should every three years take out the oldest canes to encourage vigor. Other than this, DO NOT prune these roses just for the sake of pruning. Leave them alone. Pretty simple! Not all old roses are suitable for northern gardens as some are too tender or susceptible to diseases. Unless you are a collector with experience, steer away from these varieties. These roses developed in areas entirely different from our growing conditions. These are the basics that old, heritage or heirloom roses need to perform well in our gardens.
As for fertilization, stick to organic. Start with good rich soil when planting then every spring and mid- summer (after blooming), side dress with a bucket full of aged compost, manures AND a cupful of seaweed meal (kelpmeal), bonemeal and alfalfa pellets scratched into the soil. My experience with old roses is that they detest synthetic fertilizers. Most oldies don’t require or simply detest any sprays for insects or diseases. Depending on the weather, you shouldn't’t have to spray at all. Very hot dry summers may bring spider mites to any garden plants. They should be sprayed initially with insecticidal soap and then every week give the underside of the foliage a strong blast of water until the pest subside. Repeat regularly. Do this in the early part of the day so the leaves can dry off before night. These critters are very hard to get rid of once you have them, so keep your guard up. This procedure also works very well for aphids. The Centifolias and moss roses can develop black spot in wet damp locations. Try to plant them in full sun with good air circulation. Even if the old beauties get fungal diseases, as most roses do if conditions are right, these guys don’t seem to be harmed to any extent. You don’t see them being sprayed when found growing for years in old abandoned graveyards or fields, now do you? Yet they survive and have for centuries. As with any garden plant the more attention you give to its needs the better looking and healthy it’s going to be. If you totally ignore it, don't expect it to give its best. The nice thing about the old roses is that while we can’t always give our plants constant attention, you can be assured that once established, you won’t loose them or that they will be seriously damaged, if you’re not able to get into the garden for a while. So what old roses can easily be grown in our Canadian? Here are the easiest and hardiest varieties of the Old Roses that you should be able to find. If you plant one from each group you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find that each will have a different fragrance, bloom form and growth habit. But note that once you’ve grown them and inhaled their perfume, don’t be surprised to find you’re hooked for life!
Some Perennials that go wonderfully with the Old Roses Hardy geranium (cranesbills): Geranium 'Johnson’s Blue', G. sanguineum 'Bloody Cransbill', G. sanguineum . 'Album', G. sanguineum striatum, G. himalayense 'Gravetye' and many more. Salvia: Salvia 'May Night', Salvia nemorosa 'East Friesland', Veronica (speedwell): Veronica incana (woolly speedwell), Veronica prostrata 'Heavenly Blue' and Veronica teucrium” Crater Lake Blue” Lavender: Lavandula angustifolia 'Munstead', L. angustifolia. 'Hidcote Blue'. Nepeta: (this is a good substitute for lavenders in harsher climates). 'Dropmore Blue' and 'Six Hills Giant'. Lysimachia (loosetrife): Lysimachia punctata (yellow loosetrife) and Lysimachia clethroides (gooseneck loosetrife). Delphinium: any of the blue and deep pinks work well, especially among the larger shrub and climbing roses. |